Day 24: Brother Sun and Sister Moon: Francesco, Chiara, Solitude and community

The dawn broke though wispy cloud to reveal a blue sky over Assisi for our day exploring this ancient holy place. Waking to church bells peeling all over the town is such a lovely sound, an ancient call to prayer, this time from our tradition. Today was to be a day of  walking for the most part as the centre of Assisi has significant restrictions on vehicles and as the medieval festival is currently underway there are even more road closures and things happening. The first stop after a yummy breakfast featuring healthy options like ricotta and pear tarts (well maybe not so healthy, just don’t tell the dietician!), was to visit the basilica of St Francis in Assisi a short walk from the hotel. This is a three leveled basilica, the ramp up from the street leads to the lower basilica featuring several chapels; the road down from the main square leads to the upper basilica and below the lower basilica is the tomb of St Francis, built on the Hill of Hell where he asked to be buried. 

As we were waiting to enter the basilica at 9am there was a man dressed in a hair shirt crawling up the pavement towards the basilica on his knees. Our guide Giuseppe warned us not to engage with him or anyone associated with him because he belongs to a cult group and they are very destructive and have nothing to do with the Franciscans. There was a lively interchange between one of the “followers’ and Giuseppe when the follower got too close to our group. 9am saved us and we entered the lower basilica to see magnificent frescoes by Cimabue and other early Tuscan painters. This basilica is an example of early Gothic architecture in Italy and is one of the first churches to feature stained glass as a way of adding beauty while providing light. Apparently the Italians shunned the Gothic style of architecture as it came from the north, but as Francis had some French ancestry, it was decided to build the large basilica in a style that was inspired by France, hence the Gothic style. We briefly visited the crypt to say a short prayer however Mass was being said down there so we had to pass by fairly quickly. After exploring the damaged frescoes in the side chapels near the stairs and learning that they cannot be replaced because there is a fine line between restoration and renewal, we climbed the steep stars towards the upper basilica, landing in a beautiful courtyard cloistered area. I can imagine it filled with dozens of monks in their long brown robes, praying their morning office.

More stairs and the upper basilica was revealed. Here I just stood and shook. It was so beautiful. Very understated in many ways, but the frescoes of Giotto like "St Francis Preaching to the Birds" that line the walls of the nave are just magnificent in every way. It is unfortunate that the ones by Cimabue have not stood the test of time, possibly due to impatience in not wanting to wait for the plaster to cure with the paint! My favorite is probably Francis with the birds and when we had seen this work we were presented with a holy card from one of the Franciscan priests that had been blessed at the tomb of Francis. It was such a great honour. Cathedral tour over it was time for a quick cuppa in the town before Mass so we hiked up to the coffee shop via a lovely garden area featuring the word Peace and the Tau symbol which Francis used as a cross. We became a victim of this very strange Italian ordering system…. You stand on one side of the store in a queue, pay for your cup of coffee and then queue to actually order it from the barista who really didn’t seem very interested in making take away Americano coffees for Aussies in a hurry.

Mass was held in the lower level of the monastery centre. The chapel was spartan, as you might expect from the Franciscan world, but very beautiful and the peace of Assisi emanated from everywhere in that chapel. Sam preached on what the Spirit brings... "Love peace patience….” The list was endless and so appropriate in this place of peace. After Mass it was free time and fellow pilgrims could be seen shopping – a pilgrim ritual that is very important to some – and there was also evidence of pizza, panini and gelato, some staple Italian food groups. Chris and I settled for panini and I has my first cannoli. Yummmmm.

After lunch we gathered back on the concourse to load into cabs for a very steep drive in 8 seater cabs towards the Franciscan hermitage, high in the hills beyond the town of Assisi. It is here that Francis would escape to and live in solitude in caves, spending time in prayer. The hermitage there today is very old, dating back to Francis’ time and provides some accommodation for about 5 people to attend retreat. It is the most beautiful and peaceful place. We wandered thought the original tiny building and the pathways and doorway were so tiny it was a bit like being back in the underground city in Cappadocia. The location is utterly beautiful and the only sound around the place is the sound of bird calls. Absolute peace and a magnificent view over the Assisi valley.

Back in the cabs it was slightly further down the mountain to the church of San Damiano and the foundation house of the Poor Clare sisters and place of St Clare’s death. It was in the chapel here that Francis heard the crucifix speak to him with the message that he needed to go and rebuild the crumbling church. An interesting message for Francis who did just that  and the original crucifix hangs in the large church of St Chiara in the Assisi town centre, but could equally well have applied to Francis the peacemaker who travelled to Egypt and built relations with the Sultan. Initially perhaps his aim had been to convert him or be martyred, but in their exchange the Sultan came to respect Francis as a man of peace.

 There is much our troubled church of today could learn from Francis and perhaps as educators we too need to take seriously the message of the crucifix to “rebuild the church” as a place of peace and inclusivity. St Damiano is also important today as St Clare’s place of death, and her final resting place is also the St Chiara Church. My favourite thing about St Damiano is that this was the place where Francis composed the Canticle of Creation – Brother Sun and sister Moon and the others reinforcing the beauty and grandeur of God’s creation. The sense of stewardship is strong in this peaceful place. It is very beautiful.

The final stop on the tour today was back in the town at the church of St Chiara to see the relics and to pray before the crucifix. It was here that the cardinal told us about the St Francis experience of the crucifix. Apparently on the original crucifix which we saw in the chapel, the body of Jesus is like a living body, with eyes open. In the neighbouring part of the church there is a post Francis version of the cross and it shows a more tortured and “dead” Jesus. The two versions have implications for Christology… the divine and human natures of Christ and the cost of suffering. It was something I had not been aware of before and I really like this particular image of the crucifix as we had one out at Marayong in Geoff’s time there.

Tour over it was time for a gelato and a stroll back to the hotel. As the medieval festival was on in the town square it was necessary to go the long way round and so we strolled down hill to get to the hotel with time to freshen up for our vigil Mass and to gather our holy things for a cardinal’s blessing tonight at our final vigil mass. While Mass was cozy in the hotel bar area, it was lovely and Eminence told us that he was happy to bless the “2 tons” of religious iconography because these aids were tangible reminders of the faith and the tradition.


It was hard to believe that we had celebrated our final Mass together and we sang Sing a Blessing to bless each other as we head off tomorrow on our separate ways. Dinner followed the Mass and then the speeches and thank yous. There were more than a few damp eyes as we expressed our gratitude to Chris Hingerty, Chris Hohnen, Deacon Sam, Dr Dan and Eminence or THE CARDInal as we had come to know him. Our last night together... it seems like forever ago that we started and now it is almost over. What an amazing ride this has been.

Day 23: Arrivederci Roma! Bonjourno Assisi!

Having had five nights of luxury at Domus, both because it is such a beautiful place to stay and also because it was luxury staying in the same place for 5 nights and not having to repack the suitcase, it was time to bid farewell to beautiful Roma and to head north on the final leg of the group pilgrimage to Assisi. The traffic getting out of Rome was fairly chaotic but once we had cleared the city limits it was a leisurely drive through very green countryside. A quick stop at a truck stop full of kids on school excursion for morning tea and then it was off to our intermediate stop for the day: the hill town of Orvieto. 

What a pretty place. We had to catch the funicular railway to the top of the hill and then we crammed like sardines into a mini bus for a further drive up the hill to the cathedral square and what a sight greeted us. This cathedral, built in a Romanesque Gothic cross style was absolutely amazing. We were in a hilltop town with its own magnificent cathedral.

While we were not allowed to take pics indoors, the facade is an indication of the interior beauty as well. One of the side chapels is decorated by Signorelli and his painting of the Last Judgment reveals his ability to paint three dimensionally with incredible anatomical detail. The piece which surrounds the chapel is metaphorical and allegorical, indicative of the power of art as a medium for education in a world of low literacy rates. The Cardinal shared some insights about the painter and his intention in work and then it was time to view the chapel of the Holy Corporal, where the miracle of the bleeding Eucharistic host is said to have occurred. There is an obvious devotion to this relic and it gives cause for pausing to think about devotion to the holy Eucharist. We will think of this on the Feast of Corpus Christi each year, created in honour of this miracle. Following our tour of the church it was time to break bread together, sharing panini, pizza and hamburgers before going on an exploration of the town. The town has narrow winding streets, interesting towers and quaint little stores. Chris was very happy to have his first hill town fix. Then it was off to Assisi.

I think Rome must have exhausted most of the pilgrims or maybe it is just having been on the go for almost a month, and so, once back on the coach most of us snoozed through the introduction to Assisi DVD that Tonino was playing on the coach. We arrived in the lower town where Francis lived and died and attended the magnificent Santa Maria d’ Angelis. What an amazing building… a church within a church. The original or porzincoula was a tiny Benedictine church that Francis procured for his monks in the middle of a marsh wasteland. It was virtually condemned, but Francis rebuilt it.

 
It is said that pilgrims passing through will gain an indulgence to have their sins forgiven. The basilica to commemorate Francis’ death was commenced two years after Francis death at the end of the 13 century, literally encasing the porzincoula inside the basilica. There is also evidence in the basilica of where Francis died, although his body was removed to the upper town, to the place called the Hill of Hell where he had asked to be buried and where the Franciscan Basilica in the town stands today. Being pilgrims, Eminence led us into the tiny porzincoula where we prayed the peace prayer of St Francis. After we were also shown the rose garden area where there are thornless roses that are descendants of the miracle rosebushes that Francis leapt into. Along the corridor some white doves had made a home. 

Our Mass today was in a chapel in the basilica and so we attended a small chapel with a fresco on the back wall and a beautiful altar made in the shape of a bush and a cross made of leaves. It was lovely and Chris had the opportunity to read in that special place. I was pleased for him. “Taste and see the goodness of God” said the psalm…. and that we had done, for God has indeed been good on this pilgrimage.

A short bus ride saw us arrive at the bus car park because large vehicles are not allowed in this hill town with its tiny road and very sharp corners. Once again the pilgrims hiked up a hill toting our green Harvest bags behind us to the Hotel Giotto, our accommodation for two nights. It is a very stylish hotel, and the welcome drinks on the terrace were lovely before dinner. The view from the balcony and our hotel room is just truly beautiful, and I start to reflect on Francis’ connection with nature. From what I see, in this place a love of environment would come fairly easily and praise of God would follow soon after.

Tonight as I fall into bed at 11.30pm, I can hear the Carillion of church bells ringing out across the valley. At home such a noise would probably cause aggravation but not here in this fabulous oasis, and so I pray

Lord make me an instrument of your peace….

Day 22: Roamin’ in Rome.. Vatican and Villas

Chris and I were to go our separate ways today as he would spend the day with Enid exploring the Tivoli and the Gallery Borghese. So his blog is tacked onto today's page. Meanwhile  I was involved in special teacher pilgrimage business with my colleagues. For me today’s first stop is the Congregation for Education. This is a part of the Curia, and it is the body that oversees all aspects of Catholic Education from seminaries, to universities and also to schools worldwide. In days gone by one might say a part of the Inquisition??  The head of the Congregation is a Cardinal, and he met us and welcomed us but had to be about Pope business and so our meeting was chaired by a laywoman, Ms. Johnson, who outlined the work of the congress and how our work fits in. Basically there are meetings where each country and region sends their bishops during Ad Limina visits. We also learned about upcoming documents of interest and when Ms Johnson had finished explaining the work of the congregation, Dan spoke and then invited some of us to speak about initiatives in our area. I was invited to speak on the secondary perspective on Religious Education and felt that was a real honour. The whole meeting went for about 80 minutes and when it was over we all came away with a sense that it had been a great experience: we had learned things about the Congregation and had had an opportunity to share our work. Dan and Eminence each spoke about the exercise later saying that they were very pleased with the way it went. Then they along with Anne, Debbie, Sam and Chris Hingerty went to a meeting at the North American seminary where there are 12 Australian seminarians studying for the priesthood. The rest of us had a 7 minute lunch break before jumping the long outside queue to see the Vatican museums and Sistine Chapel.

This place is a seething mass of humanity. No other way to describe it and according to our guide Paulo it was not a very busy day. We only touched the surface of the richness of the galleries of sculpture, some tapestries and maps before being walked like sheep in a sheep run through the Sistine Chapel. Wow I have actually seen the ceiling of the Sistine chapel. It appeared strangely smaller than I thought it might and I admit to not being overwhelmed by the experience, I guess because there were just so many people there. The experience was also punctuated by bizarre things like German tourists taking their cookies out in the middle of the chapel to eat them and the rude and ignorant tourists who insist on taking photographs in spite of being told not to. So no pics to post, but the hand of God touching the hand of "man" is as amazing as I thought it might be.

Following the Sistine chapel, this tour concluded in the basilica. How different is the atmosphere in there when it is stacked with people. Yesterday was such a privilege having the basilica all to ourselves to pray and to explore. Our guide pointed out the graves of JPII and John XXIII, unfortunately the latter was closed off for refurbishing and then we had another wander of the corridors before leaving to meet the bus and yet another church stop or two. Leaving the basilica by the front doors it was great to pause and look at the seating there on the pavement and to realise exactly how close we had been to the Pope yesterday, thanks to having the Cardinal as our Spiritual guide. Lucky pilgrims. 

Our Mass today was at St Clements and we met the Cardinal and the others there.  Firstly we had mass in antiphonal seating with both altar and ambo tower above us. Then a Dominican priest took us on a brief tour of the church. The top layer is a basilica from the middle ages with stunning mosaic above the apse featuring lambs and saints and Jerusalem and Bethlehem… a theme that had been seen before in the church artwork. We then inspected the lower level, a 4^th century basilica, built over the top of a Roman market and warehouse. We then went all the way down to that ancient set of ruins to see storehouses with herringbone patterns on the  floor and etchings into the marble walls. What was very interesting way down here below ground was the altar to Mithras that was found, indicating that the original inhabitants of the area probably predated the Roman and were involved in the Cult of Mithras… all of that below street level. It makes you very aware of the amazing history of humanity played out in every part of this city.

A quick trip back to the hotel to freshen up where Chris caught up to us and then we were whisked off to dinner on the other side of the Tiber at a lovely Italian restaurant in Piazza del Santa Maria in Trastevere. Before dinner we visited yet another church, the church that gives its name to the piazza, with amazing mosaic work quite possibly done by the same artist as St Clements because of the featuring of lambs and Jerusalem and a distinctive style. I am not sure but it is possible. The mosaic of Christ above the apse would have to be among the most beautiful I have ever seen. 

 

The parish priest then escorted us to see a 3^rd century icon of the blessed virgin Mary.

 3^rd century! Yes the colours were a bit of a challenge but the age of it was mind-blowing as it could have almost had a contemporary edge to it. This parish hosts a very active Eigidio community. It is a lay community that works for the good of the poor, refuges and migrants and also lobbies governments to bring about end to tension in overseas countries. It is obviously a vibrant community because people in their hundreds were filing into this little church in the square to pray for a positive outcome to tension in Nigeria. There was real sense of the people of God in that place. We have been so privileged to witness so many people ministering in different ways on this pilgrimage in exceptional circumstances.

We then strolled across the square to dinner where we were serenaded by a local group playing in front of the fountain. Unfortunately I was a little cold and it was hard to relax but the dinner was so much fun and the food was lovely. Apparently the Cardinal used to live in this part of Rome and this is one of his favourite restaurants. He was certainly treated like a celebrity and was great company during the meal. Dinner in a pizza on our last night in Roma. Belissimo. And now home to pack!

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What Chris did...

My day started early with breakfast with the group, then a taxi to pick up our friend Enid before boarding our tour bus. Our first destination was Tivoli to the east of Rome, visiting Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa) and Villa d'Este.

Being an emperor, Hadrian wanted an estate (not a simple house) on the Tivoli hills to catch the breeze during the hot Roman summer. It is extensive. His personal house had a circular moat within it. There were buildings for his wife a kilometre away - recipe for marital bliss? And he liked to party. The dining pavilion was big, with a lake and a grotto. And of course you need a hot baths and gymnasium complex for 1000 persons!

There is a large lake that leads up to Hadrian's house, under which the slave quarters were located. There is also an extensive system of concealed walkways and tunnels so that the slaves would not be seen coming and going about the estate.

Our guide spoke of Hadrian's friend Antinous. After Antinous' death, Hadrian had him deified, and built a small temple on the approach to the villa entrance. You can see the remains. There was an obelisk which was moved into Rome - more of that later.

We then continued up the hill to Tivoli proper, where the Villa d'Este is located. It was commissioned by Cardinal  Ippolito II d'Este in the 16th century. Of interest are the ceilings and roman mosaics found below the lower floor's floor.

The real feature is the water gardens - cascades, water tanks, troughs and pools, water jets and fountains, and giochi d'acqua. The site makes use of the steep slope (and of course, steps!). It is beautiful.

After a quick panini lunch, we were back on the bus returning to Rome. We were a little late, so decided to walk up to the Roma Terminii railway station to catch a taxi to our next spot - the Galleria Borghese. When we got to the taxi rank, we were approached by a man I assumed to be the dispatcher. He asked where we were going and I told him. He said "yes, this way, only 10 euros each" - and I said no, no, no! We rejoined the queue and shortly later we arrived at the Borghese gardens for 4 euro 65. The Gallery is located in the Villa Borghese, a two storey house that was built  for Scipione Borghese, who used it as a villa suburbana - a party villa - at the edge of Rome, and to house his art collection. Now in public hands, you visit for a specific two hour period. Enid and I were joining a guided tour of the gallery and gardens. With so much to see, our guide concentrated on the Bernini sculptures and Caravaggio paintings. We learnt a lot about how each used their medium to break new ground. Bernini's sculptures present different perspectives of the story from different angles. The ceilings are painted to look three dimensional, but don't call it Trompe-l'œil as French language is so not welcome!

We finished off the tour with a walk through the gardens, seeing interesting things like an English bulldog, fake ruins as part of a war memorial, a replica of the Globe Theatre, people rowing boats backwards on a small lake with faux Roman temple, and the Antinous obelisk where it was placed on the Pincian Hill by Pope Pius VII in 1822. I had heard about it back at the Villa Adriana, and was able to share with the rest of this tour group.

Finally we arrived at the hill above the Piazza del Popolo, with sweeping views of Rome and the Vatican.

After lots of photos, Enid and I made our way down the (long and winding) road to pick up a taxi to take us back to our accommodations. After saying farewell and wishing her well on her cruise, I dashed up to shower and change - it is handy having your own personal dresser ready for you (i.e., Liz). Made it on to the coach, and then off to Travestere!

Buon appetito!

Day 21: You are Peter …. and on this rock

A very early start to perhaps the most amazing day of pilgrimage yet. The wake-up call was 5am for a quick breakfast and onto the bus, destination Vatican City. We arrived to find the dome of St Peters shrouded in mist in the dawn light. It was at once eerie and quite peaceful. A few cars and taxis drove by, but beyond that our little group of Aussie pilgrims had St Peter’s Square to ourselves. A quick photo opportunity and then through security and into the basilica via the side entrance. The implications of the early morning arrival were about to become clear.

Entering the basilica was a goosebumps moment, my skin felt cold, not only because of the cold morning air but because of the immensity of the space. We had seen amazing things on this pilgrimage but nothing could prepare me for the sheer scale of St Peter's basilica. What a privilege… we were there on our own. The only others we saw were a few priests each celebrating Mass at an altar around the basilica and a group of cardinals processing behind each other who disappeared through a doorway to be rediscovered later. The floor of the basilica was ours to wander. We stood at the foot of the baldacino designed by Bernini that marks the spot of St Peter's grave and houses the high altar. It towers in bronze skyward towards the Michelangelo designed dome of the basilica. Beyond it, the chair of Peter adorns the back altar with a glowing mosaic Holy Spirit. And all I can here is the silence of the centuries, muffled footsteps and an overarching sense of the presence of the divine. We were given 20 minutes to explore but rather than head off on a mission I strolled, feasting on the artworks and the symbolism in this majestic space.

The tomb of John Paul II was evident in a side chapel near the entrance and then I saw the piece of art I had been longing to see. Pieta by Michelangelo: the agony of a woman embracing her dead son. Sculptured in marble it looks so warm and even soft with the folds of Mary falling gently towards the floor in stark contrast to the lifeless body of Jesus. Perhaps it was because the piece looked somehow smaller and more delicate than I had imagined, but as I stood before It I was overcome with a profound sense of grief and tears began to run down my cheeks. In a silent St Peter’s, on my own, in front of Pieta. As I walked back along the nave, the rays of dawn were streaming in through the windows above the entrance to the basilica casting patterns in the air and on the floor: rays of divine light.

We were called to the doorway of the disappearing bishops and processed across the floor of the basilica in the traditional two lines, following Eminence to the crypt level of the basilica to celebrate Eucharist in the Hungarian chapel. On the way we found the cardinals that had disappeared earlier, celebrating together at the chapel closest to the tomb of St Peter. And so, we celebrated Eucharist together and then returned to the floor level of St Peter’s to pause at the tomb of Saint Peter for prayer and a photo opportunity.

As the people were gathering for the audience and we had specific seats to occupy we made our way out to the general audience area. We walked via the main nave and saw the markings of the world’s biggest cathedrals marked in the floor, comparing their size to the basilica. The good news that Eminence was keen to point out to us is that St Mary’s Cathedral makes it on at almost 2/3 the length of the basilica. That done, we walked out the main doors of the basilica and could hardly believe what we were seeing, standing on the porch overlooking St Peter’s Square.  We were then escorted to our seats in the front section right near where the Pope would sit. We were less than 10 metres from the action. What was even more exciting was that Dan and Sue, Sam and Chris our tour director were actually going to meet the Pope, along with Eminence. They were seated in front of the barricade just in front of us. The sun was hot while we waited and then the Pope mobile arrived and he did laps of the square before driving up the stairs in front of us and assuming his seat on the presidential chair under the large cover. He looked frail and thinner than I had thought that he was. The ceremony consisted of a scripture reading from Acts concerning the witness of Stephen before his stoning. This was read by Cardinals in several different languages including English. At the conclusion of the reading each Cardinal then introduced the various groups that were present at the audience that day, according to their language. As each group was introduced there were cheers and choruses of songs. We were very excited when we were introduced as teachers from the Archdiocese of Sydney Catholic Schools accompanied by his Eminence Cardinal Pell. When each language had had their turn the dignitaries were presented to the Pope. It was very special to see each of our fellow pilgrims meet the Pope and as the photos attest, each person was very touched by the experience. I think it will take at least 'til his ordination to wipe the smile off Sam’s face, and that is just how it should be. As the ceremony was finishing we were ushered out to meet up with our superstars and to be sent off to grab a very quick lunch before meeting up again for our back of house tour of the Vatican Gardens.

Back in the gate past our favourite Swiss guards and this time onto minibuses not unlike the backlot buses in Universal Studios  to tour the gardens. The gardens occupy approximately one third of the Vatican state. They are green and fresh and beautifully kept and provide a place for meditation and prayer for the Pope and papal staff. They are certainly impressive. The little buses we travelled around in had headsets that plugged into a recorded soundtrack… it really felt like we were on the train in Universal studios seeing the sights.

After a spot of shopping time at the religious icon stores it was time for the final treat of the day: a tour of the necropolis or Scavi under the St Peter’s Basilica.What a fabulous tour. I knew that St Peter's had a crypt, as I had seen it this morning but I did not realise that the entire building was built on a city of the dead - a pagan city at that. St Peter had been killed in a circus that had existed where St Peter’s is now. He had been buried there in a simple tomb and later, even though Christianity was not the legal religion, a trophy monument, a small pagan looking temple, had been built over his grave. All around the area were huge mausoleums that contained pagan tombs. When Constantine went to build the first St Peter’s in the 4^th century, he had the roof of each mausoleum smashed and then the buildings were filled in with soil and in that way the foundations could be laid for the new church. Of course the original tomb of Peter was boxed into a marble case but people forgot exactly where it was. Excavations and records indicate where it is including a graffiti wall which can still be seen. So, what is amazing and of course is no accident is that where the baldacino is located  is immediately above the tomb of St Peter. Literally upon this rock I will build my church. The other thing that was amazing is how well the frescoes in the necropolis were preserved, apparently because the soil that they filled the mausoleums assisted with the preservation. It was an incredible experience, seeing the artwork seeing the tombstones of the ancients and realizing the enormity of the story of humanity. And to think only 200 people tour the necropolis each day - another special moment.

It had been a huge day but we still had one stop, to see the Caravaggio painting of St Paul’s conversion on the road to Damascus. We stopped briefly at the Place di Popularire to enter the church where this painting is found. It was the same painting we had seen on the DVD at Leichhardt the night before we came away. It is true Caravaggio style, perhaps not as big as I had imagined it, but amazing use of luminescence. Glad to have seen it.

Our day continued as we met up with my former colleague Enid for pizza and gelato at the Fontanne di Trevi. What a hoot of a night we had and the Trevi was ssoooooo crowded. And so I came to the end of an amazing overwhelming day, a day when words are not enough to describe the beauty, the grandeur and the connection to the story of God’s people for 2000 years. I am a member of that church, called by baptism to be priest, prophet and king. Called to witness and proclaim. I feel so privileged and humbled in the shadow of the memory of the day.

Day 20: Walking with a very troublesome woman

It was a quiet morning at leisure and many of the group was heading off to the religious shopping district to buy goodies to take back to Australia. Given that Chris was not feeling fabulous and needed a visit from the doc,  I decided to stay pretty close to the Domus with him, went for a walk, mooched around, took some pics of this amazing piece of Australia in Rome and had a lovely lunch at a trattoria around the corner...Veal Limone and Rigatoni Meatball. Yum!

The afternoon session was a pilgrimage walk in the footsteps, not of St Paul this time, but of St Mary of the Cross MacKillop, that very troublesome Aussie woman.   Mary journeyed to Rome at a very turbulent time in Italian history to visit the Pope and gain papal approval for the rule of her sisters.  So we headed off in light rain, past Termini Station where Mary would have arrived in Rome and then on to some of the places where she either lived, prayed or sought support.  One point of interest was St Andrews’ church, place of regular worship for Mary and the place where St Stanislaus Kostka lived, a young Jesuit seminarian who was canonized for his good works. The chapel is small but quite stunning with a lot of coloured marble. Beyond this small chapel we saw the Presidential Palace, not that it had anything to do with Mary per se but it was an important part of Italian history. The next stop was to be at the Church of St Agatha of the Goths which is a tiny church that was originally home to Aryans who supported the Aryan heresy that denied the divinity and humanity of Christ. When the Aryans were overthrown in the 6^th century the church reopened as a place of Catholic worship. It was a surprising little oasis of peace. Looking fairly run down and small from the street, we descended into a courtyard and entered through small doors into a beautiful worship space where quiet organ music was playing. A real sense of history in the nondescript building. 

Moving from there we stopped at the Convitto san Tomaso which was originally the Irish College in Rome. Here Mary worked to prepare her case for the Vatican and we were fortunate to be welcomed by Dominican Father Luke who showed us into a tiny and rather Spartan chapel with a stunning contemporary tabernacle. We paused for prayer again in this beautiful place. Passing several other sites including the Trajan market and the Forum we ended up at our final destination, the home and death place of St Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Jesuits. The Church of the Gesu is next door, and here we saw an amazingly ornate ceiling which the Cardinal described as perhaps the best vision of heaven he had ever seen.  We shared Eucharist together in a small chapel within this massive space, before viewing the arm of St Francis Xavier which is housed in a large reliquary at the front of the church. Eminence tells us that this relic is touring Australia later in the year!

It had been another interesting day, perhaps today seeing things that only pilgrims to the holy city would be likely to see. The little churches along the way revealed stories that both educated and inspired. And so ends another day.

Day 19: The ABC of Roma.

Roma! Ah what  a lovely word. And today begins the touring of significant sacred sites in the eternal city. I will leave you to decide, good readers, on what the acronym ABC stands for... I know there are a few suggestions but for me it is All Basilicas and Cathedrals. And so the day began with excited Aussies sitting at Breakfast surrounded by bacon and egg, and vegemite on toast; small home comforts after a week of cucumber and olives in Turkey. It was off to Mass at our first stop St Paul’s outside the walls.

St Paul’s outside the walls is the place of Paul’s burial as the Romans would not allow burials to take place inside the city walls. It is not the original church which had been destroyed by fire and this one was totally rebuilt in the 1800s. Very  little remains of the original structure except for the cupola that towers over Paul’s grave. The basilica is a great example of pre-Vatican architecture as we celebrate Eucharist together in the side chapel dedicated to St Benedict. There were others dedicated to Lawrence and the Holy Cross. The artwork is nothing short of exquisite. Mosaic work in gold adorns both the exterior of the top of the building and the interior. Images of the popes of Christendom line the top of the nave with the spotlight focused on the current pontiff. The cavernous space swarming with people, some totally engaged and some seemingly disconnected from the beauty and history that surrounded them was an interesting study in people watching. After Mass our guide pointed out all of the important features and then we left to explore a very different type of place of worship.

Second stop of the morning was the Catacombs of St  Domitilla. This was the site of burial of many of the early Christian martyrs and other Christians who wanted to celebrate Eucharist nearby the holy places of burial of the martyrs or who needed a place of burial at a reasonable cost. Of course it too is outside the city walls, because there could be no burial within the ancient city.  The entrance at ground level belies the myriad of tunnels that lies below. Unfortunately there is no opportunity to take photographs in the catacombs so once again I rely on the eyes of my mind for the memories.( and a little help from the internet) There is a simple and unadorned chapel  30 metres below the ground and the catacombs go down 4 levels below that. While legend might have it that the catacombs were hiding places where the early Christians lived this seems not to actually be true. They were not actually a hiding place. The first Christians could not have lived in there as there was simply  not enough oxygen to sustain long term living. As we walked through the tunnels on the second level we saw niches in walls covered by either terracotta or marble. The body was simply paced on shelf and the sealing indicated the relative wealth of the person with the rich having marble grave closures and the poor only terracotta. It is estimated that 150,000 were  buried originally in this catacomb alone. Only about 2000 graves remain intact and they’re on the lower levels. Over the years there have been issues with grave robbers and also some bones of martyrs (testifying to faith) have been moved to other places such as below the Pantheon in later Christian times. The tunnels are cold dark and eerie but strangely beautiful and inspiring. Artwork revealed early frescoes in solid colour and  carvings of the anchor and the fish, the early Christian symbols. They are  naïve in style and they tell the story of a faith filled people. To connect with those who did so much to sustain faith is inspiring and the simplicity of the space is humbling.

Lunch was had under an umbrella at a café in the street next to the basilica of St Mary Major with Chris H and Paula our tour guide. St Mary M is a  huge church the central section of which dates back to the 4^th century. Little of the original work is in evidence due to several restorations however it is another fabulous example of religious art. The earliest mosaics are found on the arch above the central altar and they tell the story of Jesus passion and death and feature Bethlehem and Jerusalem, place of birth and place of death. The side chapel where no photographs can be taken contains an icon to Mary dating to the 500s that is mounted behind an altar in the same chapel as the tomb of the  Borgese Pope whose family funded much of the work on the church. Here I also encountered the notion of the holy door, an entrance way to the basilica that is only opened in Jubilee years, once every 25 years or so. It features two of the titles of Mary: Mater Dei and Mater Ecclesia and has beautiful relief work. I think I am beginning to better understand the reasons for the immensity of these majestic buildings and their purpose. They are not only places of worship but they are statements of the centrality of western Catholicism in an historical period where the power of Islam was significant and the beauty of the worship spaces of Orthodoxy were also so obvious. Competition seems like an ugly idea, but realistically that is what it is and a way of teaching and assuring believers of the immensity of the story of salvation. With more majestic churches on the itinerary I am sure there is more to think about here.

Back on the bus and we arrived near the walls of the ancient city to find the basilica of St John Lateran, the cathedral church of Rome. In the surrounds there was scaffolding everywhere as there was an ongoing concert of some description with techno lights and lots of sound. The juxtaposition of this against the white marble of the church with its sainted figures towering and bending on the rooftop originally commissioned by Constantine flaws me. A city of contradictions is this Rome. This is the “Pope’s Church”. Following election the pope claims his church within the first month. It is a cavernous space with double side aisles. The statues of the 12 apostles that line the central area of the basilica are imposing, somewhat scary. In the centre is the towering canopy containing two golden statues which house the heads of St Peter and St Paul respectively. Reliquaries abound, with one on the transept containing the remains of the wood of the table of the last supper. Side chapels line the sides of the church, many of which used to be owned by influential families but which now, with one exception, belong to the church. We even saw an original Giotto icon. The mosaic work which is renaissance and later is stunning and perhaps a little more stylized than the previous churches we have seen. I am in awe. I had not understood the need to have a feast of the dedication of the basilica on St John Lateran on the liturgical calendar. It seemed like an odd thing to do in Australia, so many miles removed from Rome. I will now have a new appreciation of that feast and some fabulous images to share with the students when we prepare class Mass. And that was not the end of the day… there were two more stops before home time.

At the church just across the road, many of the pilgrims in our group ascended the Holy Stairs said to have been walked on by Jesus and brought to Rome by St Helena in the 4^th century. The only way you can ascend these stairs is on your knees. Clearly not MY knees. But I stood at the bottom and watchds and prayed supporting my fellow pilgrims on the climb, not to mention holding a few bags and jumpers. Watching his Eminence ascend the stairs in prayer supported by Sam was very moving and when he shared that his prayer had been for our pilgrim group and our intentions it was all the more special.

The final church of the day was the church of the Holy Cross. An interesting place said to contain the true relics of the Holy cross brought to Rome by St Helena. The reliquary certainly attracts a good deal of attention and focuses people in prayer because the tiny chapel was very quiet and pilgrims were very respectful in this space where they do not allow photographs.

It had been a long day of visits and reflections and there was still more excitement to come. We were told that dinner tonight at Domus was to be a special affair and that we had to be ready downstairs at 7pm. We were ushered into the “crypt” which is a lovely function area where we were greeted with wine and pastries and welcomed to the Italian night. What an amazing sight. The room was all decorated and the food looked and tasted fabulous and then two Italian troubadours arrived and started the serenade. They were getting everyone involved and at one stage several of the girls, me  included, were up singing New York New York. It was a great deal of fun and I think a test run of the Domus staff and their catering. Just a fun night. As it had been such a big day it was time for bed. Ah sleep in a comfy bed. So overrated on pilgrimage but a reality at Domus Australia