Day 23: Arrivederci Roma! Bonjourno Assisi!

Having had five nights of luxury at Domus, both because it is such a beautiful place to stay and also because it was luxury staying in the same place for 5 nights and not having to repack the suitcase, it was time to bid farewell to beautiful Roma and to head north on the final leg of the group pilgrimage to Assisi. The traffic getting out of Rome was fairly chaotic but once we had cleared the city limits it was a leisurely drive through very green countryside. A quick stop at a truck stop full of kids on school excursion for morning tea and then it was off to our intermediate stop for the day: the hill town of Orvieto. 

What a pretty place. We had to catch the funicular railway to the top of the hill and then we crammed like sardines into a mini bus for a further drive up the hill to the cathedral square and what a sight greeted us. This cathedral, built in a Romanesque Gothic cross style was absolutely amazing. We were in a hilltop town with its own magnificent cathedral.

While we were not allowed to take pics indoors, the facade is an indication of the interior beauty as well. One of the side chapels is decorated by Signorelli and his painting of the Last Judgment reveals his ability to paint three dimensionally with incredible anatomical detail. The piece which surrounds the chapel is metaphorical and allegorical, indicative of the power of art as a medium for education in a world of low literacy rates. The Cardinal shared some insights about the painter and his intention in work and then it was time to view the chapel of the Holy Corporal, where the miracle of the bleeding Eucharistic host is said to have occurred. There is an obvious devotion to this relic and it gives cause for pausing to think about devotion to the holy Eucharist. We will think of this on the Feast of Corpus Christi each year, created in honour of this miracle. Following our tour of the church it was time to break bread together, sharing panini, pizza and hamburgers before going on an exploration of the town. The town has narrow winding streets, interesting towers and quaint little stores. Chris was very happy to have his first hill town fix. Then it was off to Assisi.

I think Rome must have exhausted most of the pilgrims or maybe it is just having been on the go for almost a month, and so, once back on the coach most of us snoozed through the introduction to Assisi DVD that Tonino was playing on the coach. We arrived in the lower town where Francis lived and died and attended the magnificent Santa Maria d’ Angelis. What an amazing building… a church within a church. The original or porzincoula was a tiny Benedictine church that Francis procured for his monks in the middle of a marsh wasteland. It was virtually condemned, but Francis rebuilt it.

 
It is said that pilgrims passing through will gain an indulgence to have their sins forgiven. The basilica to commemorate Francis’ death was commenced two years after Francis death at the end of the 13 century, literally encasing the porzincoula inside the basilica. There is also evidence in the basilica of where Francis died, although his body was removed to the upper town, to the place called the Hill of Hell where he had asked to be buried and where the Franciscan Basilica in the town stands today. Being pilgrims, Eminence led us into the tiny porzincoula where we prayed the peace prayer of St Francis. After we were also shown the rose garden area where there are thornless roses that are descendants of the miracle rosebushes that Francis leapt into. Along the corridor some white doves had made a home. 

Our Mass today was in a chapel in the basilica and so we attended a small chapel with a fresco on the back wall and a beautiful altar made in the shape of a bush and a cross made of leaves. It was lovely and Chris had the opportunity to read in that special place. I was pleased for him. “Taste and see the goodness of God” said the psalm…. and that we had done, for God has indeed been good on this pilgrimage.

A short bus ride saw us arrive at the bus car park because large vehicles are not allowed in this hill town with its tiny road and very sharp corners. Once again the pilgrims hiked up a hill toting our green Harvest bags behind us to the Hotel Giotto, our accommodation for two nights. It is a very stylish hotel, and the welcome drinks on the terrace were lovely before dinner. The view from the balcony and our hotel room is just truly beautiful, and I start to reflect on Francis’ connection with nature. From what I see, in this place a love of environment would come fairly easily and praise of God would follow soon after.

Tonight as I fall into bed at 11.30pm, I can hear the Carillion of church bells ringing out across the valley. At home such a noise would probably cause aggravation but not here in this fabulous oasis, and so I pray

Lord make me an instrument of your peace….